This teeny, useful bistro transports savvy Farringdon folk to provincial France with its Ricard and Lautrec posters, Peugeot pepper grinders and amenable list of crêpes.

A mix of wood, white and Sainsbury-orange tones gives the café a sweet 1970s utilitarian vibe that's nicely offset with smart, sassy service. Mains (coq au vin, say, or sea bass with saffron and sultana sauce) are but a tenner, and light meals considerably less.e.

Vegetarians are welcomed with the likes of endive and walnut tarte tatin and risotto of goat's cheese, tomato and confit onions.

The small kitchen certainly has an experimental side, as shown in a dessert of banana, beetroot and pomegranate salad. Drinks include three farm ciders, a neat choice of wines, coffee, tea and fruit juices.

A sandwich-board outside advertises takeaway specials to local office workers - £5 for a hot steak baguette sure makes the chains near the station look a poor second.